Day 5: Annapurna Bike Adventure

Starting happily and strong from Upper Pisang on a perfect biking descending trail, I couldn't have known that in several hours things would be very different.

Upper Pisang is at 3300 meteres and the trail to Ngawal, our next stop, winds on the hill facing the Annapurna range. A narrow, smooth descending trail, took us to the zig zag climb to a village called Ghyaru. Too steep to ride, step by step we walked up getting better views on the valley with each turn. In the village, reached by carrying bikes over some steep stairs, we took a tea and prayed at mani walls - the praying mainly done by Santosh and Prashant :-) a bit more up and the next section of beautiful descents started. We passed some trekkers. On one of the uphills, while moving slowly pushing a bike, I talked with an older couple from Australia. They are visiting the Annapurna circuit for the second time after 30 years - everyone I meet has their own beautiful story of “being” here.

We arrived at the lodge in Ngawal at 3700m. There are three main buildings: on the left with two double small cottages, in the center two floors with rooms, and a dining room with a kitchen on the right. In between is an open outdoor space with tables fully exposed to sun with the view on Annapurna II and III. The owners, a family with two daughters, and grandmother of 96 years, are so nice and welcoming. Sometimes, when we arrive to certain places I just want to stop, and stay there for a couple of days.

We washed clothes in a freezing water, cleaned bikes, had lunch in the sun and in the afternoon went for an acclimatisation walk to a cave at 4000m. Almost 2000 stairs up. I started to feel very tired, but I was climbing slowly with Laxman, Santosh and Prashant who were very patiently walking with me. One stop to recover breathing every 30 steps. A bit unusual for me having in mind my previous efforts at similar altitudes.

We arrived at the cave, and of course I proposed to go a bit higher - for better acclimatiosation. So we hiked up to 4100 m. Winds were blowing strongly as we were getting closer to the sunset. It was so beautiful. There are moments where not only your face is smiling, but the whole hearth is. This was such a moment.

We went down for dinner. The cold was getting to the bones as the sun was way behind the mountains. In the lodge, around a small file place Nepali and trekkers from different countries were sitting together and warming frozen bodies. It's not always like this, that everyone, independently of why they are here - holidays or work - can stay together. I will see the next day, a different village with different rules, where for example Nepali stuff like porters cannot eat in the same room as “turists”. I think it's not right, especially when there is a place for everyone, and so I prefer to eat with my Nepali team in a different place if needed.

Walking up to my room i had to climb stairs, 16 exactly, and it made me exhausted. I had to sit and breathe for at least 30 seconds.

I'm still fighting some pulmonary infection, so this got me worried a bit. But I thought : I had my couple of litres of tea that day, and I had acclimatisation hike so all will be great tomorrow.

I woke up the first time after 2 hours of sleep. Headache. At first it seemed more like a migraine. Maybe it was, but I also started to feel nauseous. Not good. I didn't have much appetite in the evening, and my saturation was at 85%. Not good. I managed to fall asleep but woke up again after two hours. I drank some tea, ate some chocolate. Not getting better. The night continued without much sleep until the morning. I was exhausted.

There were two options for the next day. We stay here for a rest day, or we cycle to the next village which is 200 meters lower. I forced myself to eat breakfast, chiapatti (kind of bread) with some curry and an egg, drank a lot of tea and found some motivation to move to a lower place - best option in my case as symptoms clearly show altitude sickness.

We did 10 km cycling in 2 hours 30 minutes - probably my slowest ride ever. To make this day even “better”, my bike gear shifter broke this morning so I couldn't put hight gears and had to walk even a small uphill. Level of energy: below zero. I was so tired. Any small effort was crushing my lungs , provoking coughing, and burning my leg muscles. While the trail...oh, it was so beautiful. I tried to admire it as much as I could, even though the fatigue was putting my mood down.

Now we're in Manang at 3540 metres. Afternoon meant rest, but also trying to fix my bike shifters - so far no luck. Appetite is still low, tiredness is still high. Tomorrow we have a rest day. My body says stop.

I'm traveling alone so we stop. No problem. We adapt the plans. But mentally it's hard to stop when all the beautiful trails and places are around you. You want to be "out there". But climbing a few stairs again shows me brutally that for now it's "out here", not there, waiting to get better.